Cheryl Rathgeber can’t get enough of crisps.
The resident of Brookside, N.S. has been making apple crisp since she was about 12 years old and growing up on a farm in Estevan, Sask.
Since then, not only has this delicious dessert remained a favourite, but it’s also come to represent endless possibilities for experimentation.
“Our family loves crisps, so, really, any kind of fruit will do,” she said, whose family includes her husband, three daughters and son.
When it comes to making apple crisp and selecting the very best apples, the retired cook, who worked at the Culinary Education Program’s CEP Café, which is affiliated with the Cobequid Educational Centre in Truro, N.S., prefers tart varieties, so Granny Smith and Gravenstein apples are her core choices.
She has a penchant for large flake oats and, in a nod to her prairie roots, she’s especially fond of the Only Oats brand. She can be found snapping up that product — The pride of Saskatoon, Sask. —in local grocery stores and at the Bulk Barn.
“I think they give the topping a nicer texture,” she noted about the brand. “Also, I always use a darker brown sugar over golden. I like to use butter and cinnamon for almost all the crisps I make. A pinch of nutmeg and a small amount of orange juice make an even more flavourful dessert.”
Her apple crisp is complemented by a sprinkling of chopped walnuts and the medley of flavours are enhanced by a delectable serving of cream.
"I like to use butter and cinnamon for almost all the crisps I make. A pinch of nutmeg and a small amount of orange juice make an even more flavourful dessert.”
— Cheryl Rathgeber
Always seeking to infuse her signature flair in her culinary adventures, she’s been inspired to embark on an odyssey of discovery and explores the infinite opportunities for creativity when it comes to this regional favourite.
“A few other popular variations include blueberry, strawberry rhubarb, bumbleberry; which is a mixture of berries, cherry and peach. And to some of these I might add cranberries, raisins, dates, or nuts.”
Vegan and/or gluten-free versions of crisp are also gaining popularity. Atlantic Canadians are being inspired to roll up their sleeves and substitute certain ingredients, such as butter and/or flour for suitable alternatives in order to create delicious desserts.
Bruce MacPherson, who hails from Montague, P.E.I, has seen first hand how the crisp craze has caught on.
He’s the Truro, N.S.-based owner of Sizzler BBQ Catering. The company has a strong presence in the Maritimes, serving its famous fare, such as whole roast pig, hip of beef and tofu veggie kabobs at events ranging from weddings, company picnics, family reunions and much more.
When it comes to dessert, MacPherson’s apple crisp is a tried-and-true favourite that’s the talk of town. It’s been on the menu ever since his parents, Herbert MacPherson and Janet MacPherson established the company in Charlottetown, P.E.I in 1980.
“Our recipe for apple crisp combines the very best ingredients that were listed in both my mother and mother-in-law’s recipes,” said Janet. “I then added twice as much cinnamon than they both suggested. Since then, our adaptation hasn’t been altered all that much.”
Using Canada’s national apple — the McIntosh — and regular rolled oats, which contribute to the crumbly texture, MacPherson’s apple crisp is distinguished by a dollop of wholesome goodness.
“We use real whipped cream,” explained Bruce. “It enhances the taste, making it truly irresistible. That might explain why people are always lining up for seconds.”
Over the years, Bruce has noticed an increase in demand for other types of crisps as well, particularly during the spring and summer months, when certain fruits are in season.
“It’s mostly strawberry rhubarb and blueberry that people will request, with some asking for roasted almonds to be added,” he commented. “However, unless specifically requested, our crisps are always made nut-free. As a company, we’re very conscientious about allergens and ensuring a safe and enjoyable dining experience for everyone is of paramount importance to us.”
This level of customer service extends to meeting the unique needs of all Maritimers.
“We welcome customization and the answer will always be ‘yes,’ so, if you’re craving a particular crisp, we’d love to hear what you have in mind,” Bruce asserts, referring to his daughter, Bethany MacPherson, operations manager in Nova Scotia, and his niece, Hailey Fisher, operations manager in P.E.I. He adds Bethany and Hailey are currently sharing operational duties for New Brunswick together, so there’s always someone to help.
According to Rathgeber, the fact Atlantic Canadians take a great deal of pride in eating locally grown and seasonal produce bodes well for the crisp craze.
“Apples can be used year-round for crisp, because they’re so plentiful in Nova Scotia,” she noted. “Rhubarb, when it’s at its best in the spring is also a family favourite. Of course, strawberries and raspberries peak during the summer months, whereas later in August, blackberries, blueberries and peaches are available.”
The baker extraordinaire, who also has a penchant for making sweet breads, such as Swedish tea ring, cinnamon twists and butterhorns, offers some tips to encourage experimentation.
“Occasionally, I add a very slight amount of almond flavouring to cherry, or blueberry crisp; it just gives them a nice change in flavour. As for a topping for blueberry crisp, actual almonds are a very nice touch. As far as adding dried fruit, it really is a personal preference.”
And if you’re still hesitant to put a new spin on crisps, Rathgeber knows the perfect place to start.
“Just look in your panty,” she said. “There are so many item you can use to change the flavour. Everything from nuts, such as coconut, to extracts, juice, or even liqueurs are great options. Dried fruits and spices, such as cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg and cloves are also wonderful. Even substituting whole grain flours for white is a possibility.”
Emphasizing the importance of averting food waste, she adds, “Whatever fruits you may have in the house, give them a try: Whether there are apples, berries, rhubarb, (which is a vegetable), cherries, plums, pears, or peaches, they’re all amazing in crisps. I hope these ideas inspire you to give them a try; you won’t be disappointed.”
Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp recipe from the kitchen of Cheryl Rathgeber
Crisp:
- 4 cups Rhubarb cut 1/2" thickness
- 2 cups Strawberries
- 1 1/2 tbsp. Cornstarch
- 1/2 cup Granulated sugar
- 1 tsp. Vanilla
- 1 tsp. Cinnamon
- 1 tbsp. Fresh lemon juice
Topping:
- 3/4 cup Flour
- 3/4 cup Brown sugar
- 1 tsp. Cinnamon
- 1/4 tsp. Salt
- 1 cup Large flake oats
- 3/4 cup Unsalted butter
- 1/4 cup Unsweetened large shredded natural coconut.
Instructions:
- In a mixing bowl, combine the rhubarb, strawberries, cornstarch, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and lemon juice together.
- Place the mixture in a 9x9 baking dish.
- Now for the topping: In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, salt and large flake oats together.
- Place the cold butter into the mixture, cutting it with a knife or pastry cutter. The mixture should be crumbly looking.
- Sprinkle the unsweetened large shredded natural coconut on top.
- Bake in a 9x9 in baking dish for 30-40 minutes, depending on your oven. The topping should be slightly brown and the fruit bubbling beneath.
- Allow the crisp to cool for about 20-30 minutes before serving.
- Serve with your favorite ice cream, whipped cream, or just plain coffee cream.
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Just desserts: Raise your crisp game by experimenting with different ingredients to create a flavourful dish - Saltwire
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