The Chef: Sohui Kim
Her Restaurants: The Good Fork, Insa and Gage & Tollner, all in Brooklyn, N.Y.
What She’s Known For: Cooking that deftly marries classic Korean and American flavors. Building neighborhood restaurants where joy is top priority.
“I THINK WE ALL appreciate where our food comes from right now,” said chef Sohui Kim, chef and owner of three Brooklyn restaurants that have closed due to the coronavirus crisis (though one, Insa, is reopening for takeout business this week). “As a chef, that’s always been my job. Now everybody’s more tuned into the logistics.” Ms. Kim’s second Slow Food Fast recipe calls for mercifully few ingredients, which keeps shopping to a minimum. The quick and nourishing cauliflower soup, creamy and full of flavor, really makes the most of every element. “This is about celebrating the good stuff,” Ms. Kim said.
Consider the cauliflower, a remarkable vegetable, sturdy and versatile. Here it’s sautéed with onions and plenty of butter, then simmered in plain water—no need to break into your stash of stock. If you have a cardamom pod, toss it into the pot for a nice floral note—but you certainly won’t miss it if it’s not there. As you purée the soup, more butter goes in, bolstering the flavor and the velvety consistency.
Ms. Kim likes to garnish this soup with saeu-jeot, a Korean seasoning of salted fermented shrimp that she always has in her pantry at home. If you have some, you’ll appreciate the umami depth it lends. Otherwise, finish the bowl with a drizzle of olive oil or some fresh herbs if you happen to have them on hand. Got some bread that’s past its prime? Cube and fry until golden to make crunchy croutons to float on top. Use what you have and what feels good. As Ms. Kim put it, “This is about feeding the soul and ease of preparation.”
TOTAL TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 4
1 head cauliflower
2 small onions, sliced
1 stick unsalted butter, cubed
1 bay leaf
1 cardamom pod (optional)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups water
1 tablespoon saeu-jeot (salted fermented shrimp, optional)
Olive oil, for drizzling
1. Chop cauliflower into rough 1-inch pieces. In a medium heavy pot over medium heat, melt half the butter. Stir in onions and sweat until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add chopped cauliflower, bay leaf and cardamom, if using, and season with salt and pepper. Sauté until spices are aromatic, 2-3 minutes.
2. Pour in enough water to just cover cauliflower. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer until all cauliflower is tender enough to be easily pierced with a fork and broth tastes good, about 20 minutes. Discard bay leaf and cardamom, if using.
3. Use a blender or food processor to purée everything in pot, adding remaining butter one piece at a time, until completely smooth. If soup is too thin, simmer to thicken. If too thick, thin with splashes of water. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Ladle soup into 4 bowls and garnish with saeu-jeot, if using, or a drizzle of olive oil.
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