The coronavirus pandemic has transformed many aspects of our lives, but an unexpected opportunity was the chance that lockdown gave us to renew our focus on our skincare routines. With the ability to not only improve the look and feel of our skin (amplified by the decreased pressure to wear make-up when working from home), our skincare rituals also allow us to slow-down, focus on self-care and counteract the effects of stress that the pandemic has exacerbated.
This slower pace has led many of us to spend more time investigating what we really need from our skincare products too, triggering a renewed appetite to understand the specific ingredients that power our favourite formulas, helping us make the very best choices. Yet, with so many ingredients to choose from, it can be confusing to know which ones we actually need.
Luckily, to help guide your way, beauty retailer Cult Beauty has revealed the skincare heroes we're Googling the most in the UK this year. How many of the top ten do you have in your routine?
Number ten: ceramides
Most Googled question: ‘what are ceramides?’
If you are confused about what ceramides are, you are not alone. There have been over 12,400 unique searches for that very question so far this year and over 204,300 for the ingredient itself.
Ceramides are waxy lipid molecules found naturally in your skin, which, as tends to happen with many of the best skin plumpers, deplete as we age. Integral in supporting our natural skin barrier, ceramides thus protect your complexion from irritation and keep skin firm and hydrated, tackling the appearance of uneven texture and fine lines in the process.
Number nine: niacinamide
Most Googled question: ‘Is niacinamide good for acne?’
Pronounced ‘nahy-uh-sin-uh-mahyd’, this clever multi-tasking ingredient (also known as vitamin B3) has seen a huge spike in searches according to Cult Beauty, as discussions around its anti-inflammatory action have increased. With 181 per cent more queries than last year, the ingredient can help treat blemishes and ease redness, while also minimising the appearance of pores. As such, it’s no surprise that individuals with acne are searching for the vitamin in their products, to help soothe and heal.
Number eight: witch hazel
Most Googled question: ‘What is witch hazel good for?'
Witch hazel has been a common skincare ingredient for centuries and it often crops up in toners because of its astringent and anti-inflammatory properties; hence why there have been 12,500 searches alone so far this year for such products.
That said, it is probably best reserved for short-term use, as witch hazel contains tannins, which the skin expert and founder of Paula’s Choice, Paula Beguon, explains is “a potent antioxidant [that] can also be sensitising if used repeatedly on skin.”
Consequently, if you love a particular witch hazel-based product, consider using it as a deep-cleansing step in your routine infrequently, when your skin is feeling particularly congested, or just in the areas you particularly need it.
Number seven: benzoyl peroxide
Most Googled question: ‘What does Benzoyl Peroxide do?’
Benzoyl peroxide is brilliant at fighting breakouts, as it combats the bacteria that causes acne and helps to remove sebum and dead skin cells. That’s why you’ll often hear skin experts singing its praises, contributing to the 343, 550 Google searches it has seen this year.
The drawback? It’s only available via prescription in the UK, so it can be more difficult to get your hands on than other acne-tackling ingredients such as niacinamide, azelaic acid and salicylic acid. Luckily, our favourite experts share their advice on tackling adult acne below, if you aren't quite ready to go and see a dermatologist.
Number six: salicylic acid
Most Googled question: ‘What is salicylic acid?’
Salicylic acid has grown in popularity especially since the beginning of 2019, with over 370,000 Google searches for the BHA (beta hydroxy acid) – 182 per cent more than last year.
The oil-soluble molecule can penetrate more deeply than other acids, meaning it can unclog pores and thus help with breakouts. It also acts to reduce sebum production, counteracting excess oil and reducing inflammation, so look for it at a 2 per cent concentration in your cleanser to keep pesky imperfections at bay.
There's lots of brilliant salicylic acid-based products on the market but the most popular product of all is The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution that has had 370,000 searches alone – we’d grab one while you can.
Number five: squalene
Most Googled question: ‘What does squalene do?’
Squalene isn’t a new skincare ingredient, but it has seen an impressive surge in interest over the past year, with a 138 per increase in searches.
A highly versatile fatty molecule, squalene is found naturally in the skin and is used as an emollient (for moisturising and softening) in skincare. It’s also an antioxidant so can protect against free radical damage, helping combat the effect of environmental aggressors.
One thing to note is that there is a subtle difference between it and squalane with an ‘a’, which you are likely to see on your products’ ingredient list. Squalene is converted to squalane because the latter is more stable and won’t oxidise when exposed to the air.
Number four: hyaluronic acid
Most Googled question: ‘What are the benefits of hyaluronic acid?’
Even the most laissez-faire beauty user has probably heard of hyaluronic acid and search volumes for the ingredient have increased by 400 per cent, meaning it is by far and away the most popular acid on the market.
In case you need a little refresher, hyaluronic acid isn’t an exfoliant like AHAs and BHAs. Instead, it is a molecule that can hold up to 1000 per cent its weight in water, meaning it can draw hydration into your skin.
Available in differing molecular weights, larger molecules sit and hydrate on the surface of the skin (and should be layered afterwards with a moisturiser) while smaller molecules can penetrate deeper to keep skin plump and help prevent fine lines.
Unsurprisingly then, the most common searches are for serums and moisturisers containing hyaluronic acid, with over 65,000 hits, although you may want to pay attention to polyglutamic acid too. It holds 10 times more moisture than hyaluronic acid and searches are slowly on the rise (increasing from 9,280 to 19,280 in a year)
Number three: castor oil
Most Googled question: ‘Is castor oil good for the skin?’
The benefits of coconut oil and argan oil have long been celebrated but it is castor oil that looks set to be the stand-out for 2021. It has had over 68,300 searches so far this year, which is up 82 per cent on 2019.
Much talked-about for its believed ability to speed up hair growth – which is why you'll see it cropping up in eyelash and eyebrow serums – it's no surprise that individuals are now questioning whether it could help the skin too.
In that regard, it's a good choice (if your skin loves oils) for locking in moisture, especially as part of your nighttime routine, as it is richer in Vitamin E and fatty acids than many other plant oils. It is also said to help with inflammation, so could help your skin if you struggle with sore breakouts.
Number two: retinol
Most Googled question: ‘What does retinol do to your face?’
The anti-ageing powerhouse retinol has had double the number of searches in 2020 as it did in 2019, racking up almost one-million mentions, so the only surprise here is that it didn't make it to the number-one spot.
Much has been written about the benefits of using retinol in your routine, but as a short and sweet reminder, it is famed for tackling fine lines and wrinkles, as well as pigmentation and acne by stimulating cellular turnover and encouraging collagen production.
With skin peeling and sun sensitivity deemed side-effects of retinol (especially at higher percentages), it's best to start off by slowly implementing the ingredient into your nighttime routine a few nights per week. Retinoid esters and granactive retinoid are less active but more stable options for those that struggle with sensitivities and irritation.
Number one: vitamin C
Most Googled question: ‘What does vitamin C do for your skin’
Taking the top spot with over one million hits, vitamin C is the most searched for ingredient of 2020, thus proving that glowing skin really is the secret to a healthier-looking complexion.
Searches for the skin-brightening antioxidant have risen an impressive 204 per cent year-on-year, probably due to its ability to tackle uneven skin tone, fine lines and general dullness without the need to resort to more invasive skin peels.
Like many ingredients on the list, different forms of vitamin C exist, but one of the best is L-ascorbic acid so check for this on your serum's 'inci list'. To avoid the notoriously unstable ingredient losing its potency, look for a formula in airtight, opaque packaging.
C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Eye Cream
Dr. Dennis Gross
£69
This expert cream combines brightening vitamin C with collagen proteins to boost skin resilience.
C Eye Advance
iS Clinical
£54
A light, easily absorbed serum packed with active vitamin C – ideal for anyone who doesn't like a rich cream.
C-Tango Multivitamin Eye Cream
Drunk Elephant
£54
People love this peptide-packed eye cream for the way it brightens skin quickly and visibly.
Skinesis Eye Recovery
Sarah Champan
£48
Vitamin C is just one of the brightening ingredients in Sarah Chapman's eye cream.
Ones to watch
While squalene, niacinamide and retinol are the top climbers of the year (with an impressive two million combined searches) other ingredients are also seeing a surge of interest that might see them enter the top 10 next year.
Bakuchiol, for example, has garnered quite the reputation as a plant-based alternative to retinol, especially among customers looking for natural skincare, due to its less irritating effect on the skin. That said, more research needs to be done to understand whether it can truly measure up to retinoids.
Clay, a traditional ingredient for drawing impurities out of the skin, has been overshadowed by exfoliating acids of late but has also resurfaced recently perhaps due to the popularity of nourishing face masks during lockdown. In fact, it has seen the biggest year-on-year increase, with 217 per cent more searches this year than last, while Sand & Sky's social-media favourite Brilliant Skin Purifying Pink Clay Mask has received over 20,000 searches alone.
As for the ingredients rounding up the top 20 most-searched skincare ingredients for 2020, they are lactic acid and azelaic acid (both gentle exfoliating acids), activated charcoal (for deep cleansing), alpha arbutin (great for tackling hyperpigmentation), peptides and resveratrol (for fine lines and signs of premature ageing), algin (a brown algae that enhances product texture) and zinc oxide (found in physical sun protection).
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