Retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid…chances are you’ve heard the hype about these skincare superstars, which are all the rage in the buzziest potions, lotions, and elixirs on the market. But (and no shade to those ingredients, which deserve their stellar reputations) they’re not the only champs in the skincare game—there are plenty of under-the-radar ingredients that have have serious skin-boosting superpowers.
As the founder of makeup brand Juvia’s Place, Chichi Eburu knows all about exploring alternative products. In fact, thinking outside the beauty box led her to a solution for some of her most frustrating skin woes, and was a major inspiration behind her recently launched skincare spinoff, Juvia’s Skin. “I struggled with aggressive hyperpigmentation, and there were hardly any resources or products that tackled my biggest issue,” she explains.
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With the guidance of a dermatologist, Eburu explored substitute products and experimented with unexpected combinations that were surprisingly effective at bringing about the results she was after. “I wanted to put together formulas that are clean, planet safe, and effective yet gentle, especially on melanin-rich skin,” she says. Juvia’s Skin products blend beauty staples like vitamin C, glycolic acid, and niacinamide with less-heralded extracts and oils such as allantoin, alpha arbutin, and baobab oil that have yet to hit household-name status.
To understand why these ingredients deserve a closer look, we spoke to board-certified dermatologist Sejal Shah, M.D., founder of SmarterSkin Dermatology in New York City, who gave us the lowdown on their benefits. Keep reading to get the scoop on these skin-gredients that deserve way more shine—and discover some new products that give them a starring role.
The Ingredient: Allantoin
Juvia's Skin
Extracted from the root of the comfrey plant (a type of herbaceous shrub), allantoin is an absolute powerhouse for sensitive skin, says Dr. Shah. “Allantoin is moisturizing, soothing, and acts as a skin protectant,” she explains. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and promotes wound healing.” Research has also shown that it has keratolytic effects, meaning it exfoliates the outer layers of the skin, which in turn makes skin look and feel smoother. Bonus: It’s also been shown to help stimulate collagen production, says Dr. Shah, making it a fantastic anti-aging option, particularly for delicate or easily irritated skin.
Find It In: Juvia’s Skin The Peptide and Ceramide Cream
An ultra-rich moisturizing cream, this product contains calming allantoin, and also packs in anti-inflammatory niacinamide and plumping peptides for a soft, smooth finish.
The Ingredient: Baobab Seed Oil
Juvia's Skin
Native to West and Southern Africa, the baobab tree is the source of a rich oil that’s been used to nurture hair and skin for centuries. It’s packed with succulent, nourishing omega-3 fatty acids, making it ideal for those with extremely dry or sensitive skin. “Baobab oil has been shown to improve skin barrier function,” says Dr. Shah. It also includes basically an alphabet of nourishing vitamins—we’re talking A, C, D, E, and F—which help to brighten and rejuvenate skin.
Find It In: Juvia’s Skin The After Glow Serum
This overnight serum penetrates skin to provide maximum hydration. The formula blends vitamin-packed baobab seed oil with other skin saviors: Kigelia Africana fruit extract and bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative to retinol that can help even out the complexion.
The Ingredient: Alpha Arbutin
Juvia's Skin
Naturally occurring in plant sources such as blueberry and cranberry, alpha arbutin has organic skin-brightening powers. It’s a natural derivative of hydroquinone—a potent brightening ingredient that can be harmful to the skin. “Alpha arbutin works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme responsible for the [over-]production of melanin,” says Dr. Shah. That over-production of melanin is what leads to hyperpigmentation (read: dark spots). “Alpha arbutin also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.” While it does release hydroquinone, she explains, it does so gradually, meaning skin isn’t exposed to it all at once and isn’t at risk for the same side effects as full-strength hydroquinone. It’s also a gentler alternative to dark spot treatments such as retinol or acids, which can be irritating on sensitive skin types.
Find It In: Juvia’s Skin The Glow C Elixir
This luxe-feeling tonic features the dynamic duo of alpha arbutin and vitamin C. The vitamin C helps to prevent superficial skin damage; meanwhile alpha arbutin works behind the scenes to tackle any hyperpigmentation you already have. The result? A smooth, even-toned complexion that’ll have you totally beaming.
The Takeaway
There are plenty of under-the-radar ingredients that may not get as much love as the cool kids of the beauty aisle, but are definitely worth considering adding to your routine. Many of these stealth skin winners can serve as effective substitutes for substances that are harsh on delicate skin, and can also pair beautifully with products that contain their better-known counterparts—a win-win for your complexion.
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