Nothing, with the possible exception of pizza, gets New Jerseyans going more than Taylor ham/pork roll. Who makes the biggest or best Taylor ham/pork roll, egg and cheese? That discussion can last for days.
Even the debate over what to call the breakfast meat can be rancorous (all Taylor ham is pork roll, but not all pork roll is Taylor ham, which is a brand name).
One thing is beyond debate: The TH/PREC is the state’s most iconic sandwich.
New Jersey takes its favorite breakfast meat seriously, and so do I. Last year, I visited nearly 50 places and drove 1,400 miles in search of the state’s best Taylor ham sandwiches. That road trip, plus my previous TH/PREC experience, resulted in a list of the state’s 33 best Taylor ham/pork roll, egg and cheese sandwiches.
This March, I visited another 15 spots in an effort to pin down the state’s very best TH/PREC sandwich. The coronavirus lockdown put a halt to that mission, but I recently revisited what I considered the six best, plus several others not previously tried.
In all, I’ve sampled 75 Taylor ham/pork roll sandwiches in the past year. We picked the state’s best Taylor ham/pork roll sandwich earlier this week.
My top 20? Here they are, ranked. Let the debate begin. I can hardly wait for all the emails.
Fishin' Pier Grille, Avalon
Fishin' Pier Grille is an oceanfront hangout hidden from the street (stay to the left of the beach patrol hut on 32nd Street and you’ll walk right into it). Unlike the standard three layers of meat found on many Jersey THEC/PREC sandwiches, it’s just one fat, hunky layer here. I loved the runny egg — thank goodness it didn’t run all over my car seats.
Taylor ham, bacon, egg and cheese bagel from Olde Towne Deli, BoontonSL
A small, spartan deli, Olde Towne Deli was founded 50 years ago as the Quick Stop. It’s pork roll paradise: Each week they go through about 125 pounds of pork roll (Thumann’s Jersey Made). Add some bacon to the expertly-cooked meat and good/gooey cheese, and you’ll go away happy.
Fredon Deli, Fredon
Fredon is in farm country, so it’s no surprise that the egg in the Taylor ham, egg and cheese at Fredon Deli is among the freshest you’ll find in a THEC. Feeling like something different? The deli’s menu is expansive: subs, wraps, burgers, steaks, roasts and seafood.
Sugar Hill Sub Shop, Mays Landing
Sugar Hill Sub Shop was one of 10 finalists in our N.J.'s best sub/hoagie shop showdown. Its pork roll, egg and cheese is — like its subs — loaded. It’s one fat sandwich. Well-built, too: cheese on top, then pork roll, egg, pork roll, egg.
Gem's House of Bagels, Port Monmouth
Rolls are not the only vehicle for Taylor ham/pork roll — many New Jerseyans prefer bagels. Gem’s House of Bagels (six locations in all) offers a standout pork roll sandwich. Mine was on an everything bagel (photo), with two layers of thick meat and a bright yellow egg that looked and tasted just-hatched.
Amato Bros., Oaklyn
There was considerable outrage on Twitter when I posted the photo of the pork roll, egg and cheese at Amato Bros. “Is that a SCRAMBLED egg?” went a typical response. What, there’s a rule that all TH/PREC sandwiches must contain a flattened fried egg? There’s a thick slice of meat in there, just enough cheese and the brioche-type bun is a nice touch.
Town Hall Deli, South Orange
Town Hall Deli claims the original Sloppy Joe sandwich. How’s its Taylor ham sandwich? First-rate. It’s fat, cheesy and pleasantly greasy. Be careful when you bite into it — it may end up all over you. Eat in your car at your own risk.
H&H Deli, Pennsauken
The pork roll sandwich at H&H is truly formidable, oozing beaucoup white cheese, with two thick slices of meat and three layers of egg. Keep plenty of napkins handy.
Summit Diner, SummitLNS
If I had to take an out-of-stater to one Jersey diner, it would probably be the Summit Diner, a barrel-roofed beauty. The original Summit Diner was built in 1929; the current one opened in 1939. Its THEC is a production: As the meat and egg cook on the grill, the cheese is placed on a roll, which is then placed in a broiler. The result: a THEC with a crunchy roll, perfectly-melted cheese, and like the diner, a classic.
Committed Pig
The Kitchen Sinker (photo) at The Committed Pig is a big sloppy mess, and that’s exactly its charm. Extra meat, extra American cheese, plus bacon and egg add up to guilty pork roll pleasure. The sweet potato waffle fries are a must-try. The Committed Pig was also one of 10 finalists in our N.J.'s best burger showdown.
Dee's Luncheonette, Hawthorne
A time-warp wonder, Dee’s Luncheonette is the kind of place you just want to cozy up to on a rainy afternoon. The Taylor ham, egg and cheese starts with an excellent roll, and the folded-over egg rests comfortably atop four layers of meat. It’s a well-built winner.
Mystic Meat & Seafood, Ship Bottom
I wish all TH/PHEC rolls looked like the one at Mystic Meat & Seafood Market. Alas, they don’t. It’s a sturdy, chewy beauty, able to hold copious amounts of meat, and they sure pile on the pork roll here. How many slices? I don’t know. I can’t count that high. It all adds up to a monstrous, meaty sandwich.
Bing's Deli, Avon-by-the-Sea
I’ve driven past Bing’s countless times over the years without stopping, and after sampling the pork roll, egg and cheese here, I’ll be back. Top-notch roll, pleasantly charred meat and a good-looking egg add up to a standout Shore pork roll, egg and cheese. They even sell T-shirts with PREC written on it. If you don’t know what PREC stands for, you’re probably not from Jersey.
Mr. Bill's, Winslow
You can’t miss Mr. Bill’s. Look for the 25-foot roadside statue of the big-eared kid with the goofy grin. The restaurant was originally called Bill’s Drive-In. A former owner renamed it Mr. Bill’s after the Saturday Night Live character who kept getting smacked around.
Bread was a key factor in my judging. The right roll can elevate any sandwich — the wrong roll can ruin it. Too many rolls in my search for the state’s best TH/PREC were soft, soggy or insubstantial. Mr. Bill’s offers a nice, sturdy roll, able to contain a healthy amount of meat, cheese and egg.
Slater's Deli, Leonardo
The state’s biggest Taylor ham/pork roll, egg and cheese sandwich? Probably at Slater’s Deli, tucked in a strip mall on Route 36. It’s a molten monster, oozing egg and cheese, with six seriously thick slices of pork roll, gobs of cheese and the egg in there somewhere. It’ll cost you $6.95, and good luck finishing it. Slater’s also offers subs, triple-decker sandwiches, salads, hot sandwiches, grilled chicken and burgers.
Dad's Deli, Marlton
Dad’s Deli calls itself “Marlton’s best-kept secret.” Best-hidden, too — the deli is behind a Rita’s Water Ice on North Maple Avenue. The pork roll, egg and cheese is hefty and a good deal at $5.35. Four slices of meat, double egg neatly folded, white cheese and an excellent roll: It’s a winner.
French toast, omelets, pancakes, subs, salads, burgers, cheesesteaks and homemade chili also can be found on the expansive menu.
Gronsky's Milk House, High Bridge
There may be no more picturesque breakfast/lunch spot than Gronsky’s Milk House, perched along the south branch of the Raritan River. It opened as a convenience store and ice cream shop in 1978; the restaurant was added in 1988. The pork roll sandwich featured a near-perfect roll (so important!), plus three layers of meat and a nice yolky egg. The toasted roll gives it good crunch and texture. Just looking at it, you know it’s going to be good.
Johnny Yarusi, owner, Johnny's Pork Roll, Red Bank
What makes a standout TH/PREC? “A great piece of bread, a lot of love and care, a runny egg and white American cheese,” says Johnny Yarusi, owner of Johnny’s Pork Roll. “You gotta burn the pork roll a little bit to give it a crispy, caramelized (finish).”
He goes against the tide by using white, not yellow, American cheese. He says it’s tastier, and the reason most delis use yellow cheese is because it’s cheaper.
There are 11 kinds of pork roll sandwiches on the menu, including the Western (pork roll, egg, provolone, sauteed peppers and onions) and the Pork Roll Rachel (pork roll, Swiss, sweet slaw and Russian dressing on grilled rye).
The Greeks, Kearny
If this ranking was judged solely on atmosphere, The Greeks would win going away. This lively little luncheonette, open since 1968, attracts locals and truck drivers, plus ever-hungry students from nearby Lincoln Middle School. “Food with attitude” is the motto, and the feisty back-and-forth between the owner and regulars is priceless. No one layers their TH/PREC quite like The Greeks: cheese, two layers of meat, egg, three layers of meat, egg, two layers of meat, cheese. The toasted roll adds a crispy coup de grâce. The Sweet Home New Jersey, with pork roll sandwiched between French toast, is a sweet spin on the classic.
True Salvage Cafe, Maplewood
True Salvage Cafe is undoubtedly the coolest spot in the state to get a Taylor ham/pork roll sandwich. At first glance, it looks like a secondhand store, with cookbooks, classic rock LPs and old-time bicycles among the furnishings. There’s a kitchen back there somewhere, and they make special sandwiches of all types.
The Taylor ham, egg and cheese is a thing of beauty. The best roll on this list can be found here, an eminently crusty/chewy roll from heralded Balthazar Bakery. There is a layer of cheese on top, followed by four slices of meat, a nice fluffy egg and more cheese. The result: a stunner of a sandwich, the state’s best TH/PREC.
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Peter Genovese may be reached at pgenovese@njadvancemedia.com.
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