To make the dressing, pour a little olive oil in a saute pan set over medium heat, add the diced pancetta and cook until it loses its raw look, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the pancettta to a small bowl.
Add the shallots to the pan and cook until they are soft and translucent, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and add to the bowl with the pancetta.
Cut the polenta into 1-inch cubes and put the cubes into a large bowl. Add the pancetta mixture, sage and parsley and toss gently but thoroughly. Season with salt and several turns of black pepper.
Use as you would any turkey stuffing or dressing by spooning the mixture into the main cavity of the bird. Put any left over into a baking dish and put it into the oven when you remove the turkey. Let it cook while the turkey rests.
To serve, use a large spoon to transfer the stuffing from the turkey to a serving dish. Garnish with sage sprigs and enjoy hot.
Skirlie is a traditional Scottish dish of savory oatmeal, served in a variety of contexts in Scotland. The word means, literally, toasted oats. It makes an excellent stuffing for turkey, as the oats soak up the delicious juices as they expand. There are other versions, some that call for chicken livers, carrots, celery or thyme. I like this simple version because it puts the flavor of turkey right up front.
Skirlie (Oatmeal Stuffing)
For 1 small to medium turkey
6 ounces (1 ½ sticks) butter
2 yellow onions, diced
Kosher salt
Black pepper in a mill
3 cups steel-cut oats
⅓ cup, approximately, Italian parsley, chopped
Put the butter into a large skillet set over medium heat. When it is melted, add the onions and saute until they are very soft and fragrant and are beginning to release their natural sugars, about 20 to 25 minutes.
Stir in the oats and season generously with salt and black pepper. Sprinkle about ¾ cup water over the oats, stir and remove from the heat. Let cool slightly.
Spoon the mixture into the main cavity of the turkey. It will not fill the cavity completely and that’s fine, because the oats will expand during cooking.
Cook as you typically cook your turkey.
To serve, use a large spoon to transfer the skirlie to a serving dish, scatter parsley on top and enjoy.
This is one of the dressings Evelyn Cheatham prepared to go with the turkey; she cooked both separately, as the cornbread would get too soggy if cooked inside the bird. She typically used chicken stock to moisten the dressing, but you can make a simple stock of the turkey neck and gizzards to use instead.
Evelyn Cheatham’s Rustic Cornbread Dressing
Makes 8-10 servings
10 cups day-old cornbread, crumbled (see following recipe)
4 ounces (1 stick) butter
1 large yellow onion, small dice
6 celery stalks, diced
1 pound cremini mushrooms or other mushrooms of choice, diced
Kosher salt
Black pepper in a mill
Pinch of chipotle powder or more to taste, optional
Roasted chestnuts, small freshly shucked oysters or dried fruit such as apricots and cranberries, optional
2-3 cups turkey stock or chicken stock
Make the cornbread a day before serving the dressing.
Several hours before making the dressing, spread the cornbread crumbs over a baking sheet and let them get very dry.
Melt the butter in a large saute pan, add the onion and celery and saute until soft and fragrant, about 15 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until they have released their liquid, about 7 to 10 minutes. Increase the heat to high and simmer until the liquid is evaporated. Season with salt and pepper and, if using, the chipotle power.
Prepare any of the optional ingredients you will use. Cut dried apricots and chestnuts into small dice. Drain the oysters and reserve the liquor.
To finish the dressing, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Put the cornbread crumbs into a large bowl and toss with the onion and mushroom mixture. Add the optional ingredients and toss again. Taste and correct the seasoning.
Put the dressing in a baking dish and moisten it with stock. Do not add too much; it should be slightly moist but not soggy. Cover the dish with its lid or a sheet of aluminum foil and bake for 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest 10 to 15 minutes before serving alongside roasted turkey.
You can use any recipe for traditional cornbread to make cornbread dressing. If you don’t have one, this one will do.
Buttermilk Cornbread
Makes 8 or 9 pieces
2 tablespoons clarified butter
3 cups cornmeal, preferably white
⅔ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons baking soda
3 cups buttermilk
2 large eggs, beaten
4 ounces butter, melted
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Put the clarified butter into a large (9-inch-by-15-inch or equivalent) baking dish or large skillet and put it into the oven.
Working quickly, stir the dry ingredients together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, beaten eggs and melted butter.
Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir quickly, until just combined.
Carefully remove the hot dish from the oven and pour the batter into the pan. Shake the batter into the corners of the pan and then quickly return it to the oven.
Bake the cornbread for 20 to 25 minutes, until lightly browned.
Remove from the oven and let cool completely before crumbling.
Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “The New Cook’s Tour of Sonoma.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com
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